Hydrangea macrophylla - the Big Leaf Hydrangea
Pruning:
Big Leaf Hydrangeas typically do not require much pruning - but if you wish to build a tighter plant or maintain a shorter size follow these instructions:
The flower buds form in later summer and then flower the next year in early to mid summer. The best time to prune is it after it blooms, from mid-July to mid-August. Selectively prune out any dead stems, or old non-flower producing stems. Cease pruning in mid-august to allow time for the flower buds to form prior to winter.
Hardiness: USDA Zone 5
Bloom Time: Summer
Bloom Color: Blue, Pink, White, Purple, Each cultivar is a different - The color can also change depending upon the soil pH.
Foliage Color: Glossy Green
Fall Color: Green or yellow
Size: 1 – 5 feet, depending upon cultivar and climate
Exposure: Full sun to partial shade
Soil: Well-drained soil
Watering: High moisture. Moisture is a necessity of this plant.
Wildlife: None
Type: Deciduous
Fertilizing: Fertilize in early spring by applying a slow release fertilizer specialized for trees & shrubs. Follow the label for recommended rate of application. Flower color is affected by pH. For blue flowers, the soil must be more acidic and for pink flowers, the soil must be more alkaline. An easy way to induce blue flowers is to add one tablespoon of Aluminum sulfate to a gallon of water and soak the roots in early spring.Treat two times.
Pruning:
Big Leaf Hydrangeas typically do not require much pruning - but if you wish to build a tighter plant or maintain a shorter size follow these instructions:
The flower buds form in later summer and then flower the next year in early to mid summer. The best time to prune is it after it blooms, from mid-July to mid-August. Selectively prune out any dead stems, or old non-flower producing stems. Cease pruning in mid-august to allow time for the flower buds to form prior to winter.
Hardiness: USDA Zone 5
Bloom Time: Summer
Bloom Color: Blue, Pink, White, Purple, Each cultivar is a different - The color can also change depending upon the soil pH.
Foliage Color: Glossy Green
Fall Color: Green or yellow
Size: 1 – 5 feet, depending upon cultivar and climate
Exposure: Full sun to partial shade
Soil: Well-drained soil
Watering: High moisture. Moisture is a necessity of this plant.
Wildlife: None
Type: Deciduous
Fertilizing: Fertilize in early spring by applying a slow release fertilizer specialized for trees & shrubs. Follow the label for recommended rate of application. Flower color is affected by pH. For blue flowers, the soil must be more acidic and for pink flowers, the soil must be more alkaline. An easy way to induce blue flowers is to add one tablespoon of Aluminum sulfate to a gallon of water and soak the roots in early spring.Treat two times.
ROOTING CUTTINGS Take a cutting from a branch of the hydrangea shrub about 5-6" long.The cutting will work best if taken from a branch that did not flower this year.
Remove the lower leaves of the bottom two leaf nodes.(see pictures #3 and #4)
Cut largest leaves down to about half their size
Dip cuttings in rooting hormone (this is entirely optional) and insert into damp vermiculite,coarse sand or other sterile medium.
Water pot well and allow to drain. Make sure soil is moist but not soggy.Cover cuttings and pot with plastic. Try to keep plastic from touching leaves by adding stakes (see picture)
O.K., I admit I stuck three steps in number 5, but this really is simple.
TIPS: Place cuttings in bright light. NEVER PLACE NEW CUTTINGS IN THE SUN. They will cook in the plastic. And even if they are not in plastic, they should be placed in a bright shady area.
Do not water again until top of soil begins to feel slightly dry. Overwatering will cause cuttings to rot.
Expect cuttings to begin to form roots in 2-3 weeks depending on temperature (faster in warm weather)and humidity. Some cuttings root in as little as one week. If a tug on the cutting resists the pull, it is rooting.
NOTE on overwintering cuttings: Getting cuttings through the first winter without a greenhouse is the hardestpart of starting new hydrangeas from cuttings. Start new cuttings early in the summer to give them the best chance for surviving the winter.
While some people manage to take cuttings through the winter indoors, in general, this does not work well. Hydrangeas do best if grown outdoors. Here are two suggestions for getting cuttings through the winter: (1) sink pots of cuttings into the ground and cover well with lightweight mulch, and (2) put smaller pots of cuttings next to a foundation and cover them with large clay pots for the winter.
Remove the lower leaves of the bottom two leaf nodes.(see pictures #3 and #4)
Cut largest leaves down to about half their size
Dip cuttings in rooting hormone (this is entirely optional) and insert into damp vermiculite,coarse sand or other sterile medium.
Water pot well and allow to drain. Make sure soil is moist but not soggy.Cover cuttings and pot with plastic. Try to keep plastic from touching leaves by adding stakes (see picture)
O.K., I admit I stuck three steps in number 5, but this really is simple.
TIPS: Place cuttings in bright light. NEVER PLACE NEW CUTTINGS IN THE SUN. They will cook in the plastic. And even if they are not in plastic, they should be placed in a bright shady area.
Do not water again until top of soil begins to feel slightly dry. Overwatering will cause cuttings to rot.
Expect cuttings to begin to form roots in 2-3 weeks depending on temperature (faster in warm weather)and humidity. Some cuttings root in as little as one week. If a tug on the cutting resists the pull, it is rooting.
NOTE on overwintering cuttings: Getting cuttings through the first winter without a greenhouse is the hardestpart of starting new hydrangeas from cuttings. Start new cuttings early in the summer to give them the best chance for surviving the winter.
While some people manage to take cuttings through the winter indoors, in general, this does not work well. Hydrangeas do best if grown outdoors. Here are two suggestions for getting cuttings through the winter: (1) sink pots of cuttings into the ground and cover well with lightweight mulch, and (2) put smaller pots of cuttings next to a foundation and cover them with large clay pots for the winter.
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